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Preseli Pembrokeshire, the area around the Preseli Hills, is an unspoilt corner of Wales with a unique character and history. Evidence of ancient life is all around, and within walking distance of Maen-Offeiriad there are many stone circles, hill forts and cromlechs. Indeed, the stones used in the construction of Stonehenge were Preseli Bluestones. The region is dominated by the wild, misty ridge of the mountains, which stretches almost to the sea, ending in Carn Ingli, the Mountain of the Angels. The Preseli’s are very atmospheric when the cloud is low; the great rocky outcrops along the ridge loom up from the swirling fog as you approach what look to be the crumbling ruins of dark Tolkienesque fortresses. Wooded valleys spread out beneath the mountain, criss-crossed by bridle paths, footpaths and quiet lanes.

The coast is famously beautiful. Although there are many big sandy beaches, the closest being at Newport and Poppit (near Cardigan), the secret treasures of this coastline are the many tiny coves, narrow openings in the high sea cliffs revealing little sand or shingle beaches. Because many of these inlets are only accessible on foot, they are never crowded: even in high summer you can often have a beach to yourself. Dolphins are often seen in the area, and seals are common.

In winter the area has a different character altogether. The mountains are shrouded in mist and the coast is battered by gales and big seas. But for those who enjoy the power of the elements, winter in Pembrokeshire offers moments of wild beauty.

Crymych is the nearest town to Maen Offeiriad. It’s a straightforward kind of a place, not beautiful but with a certain rugged charm. The butchers on the high street are said to sell the best lamb in the world. A little further away, but still only fifteen minutes drive, is Newport, a pretty seaside village with excellent cafes, restaurants and pubs, and a very good health food shop. The Parrog, the old fishing port adjoining Newport, is a wonderful place for a swim and an ice cream.

Further afield again is Cardigan, a bustling market town with a busy high street. There is an arts centre with a cinema, Theatr Mwldan, and there are several good second-hand book shops; there’s a nice spanish deli stall in the covered market. It’s a good place to head for on a rainy day: a bracing walk on a deserted beach, a spot of book shopping, a pint and a plate of chips- what more could you want? South of the Preseli Hills, St David’s and Haverfordwest are both worth a visit, or for a complete contrast there’s Oakwood, home of the largest wooden rollercoaster in the world, along with various other terrifying-looking rides.

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